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Assembly guide
Furniture Hardware and Missing Parts
Identify every fastener in the bag, know which substitutes are safe, and get the right replacement when something is missing.
Hardware identification chart
| Part | Typical size | Used for | Driven with |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cam lock | 15 mm diameter | Panel-to-panel corners | Phillips or flat screwdriver |
| Cam bolt | M6 thread, about 30 mm | Mates with the cam | Phillips, or hand-turned |
| Wooden dowel | 8 × 30 mm or 6 × 30 mm | Alignment | Rubber mallet |
| Confirmat screw | 7 × 50 mm | Direct panel joints | 4 mm hex or #2 Phillips |
| Hex socket bolt | M6 or M8 | Beds, cribs, tables | Hex key, 4–6 mm |
| Barrel (cross-dowel) nut | M6 or M8 | Receives the bolt in a rail | Flat screwdriver to align |
| Shelf pin | 5 mm | Adjustable shelves | By hand |
| Wood screw | 3.5–4 mm, short | Back panels, hinges, runners | #2 Phillips |
Sizes vary by manufacturer. Measure the thread diameter with calipers or by trying a known bolt, and check the parts list in your manual for the exact length.
When a part is missing
- Check the packaging inserts and the folds of the cardboard. Small parts are often taped inside a panel recess.
- Find the part number in the manual. Most manuals list every fastener with a number and a quantity.
- Contact the manufacturer or retailer with that part number, the product model and your proof of purchase. Many offer free replacement hardware.
- While you wait, don't force a near-match into a structural joint.
Which substitutes are safe
| If you're missing… | Reasonable stand-in | Don't use |
|---|---|---|
| Shelf pin | Same diameter metal pin from a hardware store | Nails or screws pushed into the hole |
| Wood screw for back panel | Same gauge, same or shorter length | Anything longer that could exit a finished face |
| Dowel | Fluted dowel of the same diameter, trimmed to length | Smooth dowel with glue in a cam-locked joint you may need to take apart |
| Cam lock or bolt | Wait for the matching part | Drywall screws through the panel face |
| Crib or bed bolt | Only the manufacturer's part | Any substitute |
Fixing a stripped hole
In particleboard, a stripped hole can sometimes be rescued: pack it with wood glue and a few hardwood toothpicks or a short dowel, let it cure fully, trim it flush and re-drill a small pilot. This works for light-duty screws such as back panels and hinges. For a structural cam or confirmat joint, a repair insert designed for particleboard is a better choice, and a cracked panel should be replaced.